Profiles in Tea: The Story of Kenyan Tea
Dawn of a New Tea Republic
Little did C.S. Caine realize the scale of the industry that would eventually follow as a result of his planting seeds from India on an experimental two acre tea farm in Limuru outside Nairobi in 1903 as the story goes.
After WWII, British tea companies including Brooke Bond and James Finlay began to set up estates in the Kenya Highlands between 1921 and 1925. By 1928 the first factory was operational and Kenya’s teas were being sold at the London Tea Auction.
In the 1920s, Africans began to protest their inferior status as a British colony. Protests reached a peak between 1952 and 1956. The British declared a state of emergency and imprisoned many of the colony's nationalist leaders. After the revolt, Britain increased African representation in the colony's legislative council until, in 1961, there was an African majority. In 1963 Kenya became independent and The Republic of Kenya was born on December 12, 1964.
With the new birth in indigenous people’s freedoms, the laws barring non-white tea commerce were eradicated. And the Kenya Tea Development Agency (KDTA) was formed to promote and foster the growing of tea. The agency currently manages 54 operational factories in small-scale manufacturing. With about 400,000 small-scale tea growers economically empowered directly from the KTDA, it is estimated that another 3 million Kenyans directly derive their livelihood from the tea industry. The majority of Kenyan tea is sold at auction in Mombasa. Kenya’s annual production is approximately 295,000 tons and makes it the world’s fourth-largest producer after, India, China and Sri Lanka. Kenya is the second largest tea exporter in the world and gained this status in part for its quality of teas for blending. After many years of producing CTC (Cut Tear & Curl) and instant teas, Kenya has now introduced bold, distinctive Orthodox whole leaf teas to meet a more discerning international demand.
The main areas under tea straddle the Great Rift Valley. They are in the south west of the country just south of the equator. The major production is concentrated to the west of the Rift Valley centered around Kericho, Sotik and Nandi in the highlands located south west between Lake Victoria and the Ugandan border and west of Mount. Kenya. Here the equator and the Great Rift Valley intersect in a country of great natural wonders comprised of mountains and savannah, forests and plains. Kenya’s fertile soils and sunny but cool uplands are conducive to high quality tea cultivation. Production is year-round, with two flushes from March to July and October to December.
The up till recent obscurity of Kenya specific teas in the US is mainly an outcome of its origins in use of commercial blending. Kenyan tea is a favorite for many commercial blenders because they are bold, yet differ from other teas in that they have a smooth finish with no sharp aftertaste. Kenyan teas are noted for bright, brisk, colory liquors, and the strength of Kenyan teas brew and color makes them ideal for milk. The Irish adore Kenyan teas and are responsible for nearly 1/3 of Kenyan tea exports. Kenyan teas are also mild with a possibly juniper berry note with a woodsy and lively nose. They don’t cloud and brew quickly so are wonderful as an iced tea.
As one of the few suppliers of orthodox, hand-picked Kenyan teas, the G.S. Haly is pleased to offer a few special selections. Our selection has strength and astringency that takes milk well and are similar to Ceylons in character. The dry leaf ranges from a jet black tightly twisted Orange Pekoe to a more open broad leaf with some tip. We also have a smooth, slightly malty CTC with more body than the Orthodox varieties. Kenyan teas lend themselves well to blending and flavoring as well as making a good component in iced tea blends. Kenyan teas could complement your tea selection with their bright flavor and unique appearance. We encourage your exploration of Kenyan Teas for their own merits as well as making a more rounded addition to your coffee offerings.