Profiles in Tea: The Story of South Indian Tea
The “Fragrant One” Comes Into Its Own
The Nilgiris, or Blue Mountains, are a stunningly beautiful range of hills that stretch down to the southwestern tip of India from Kerala, spill into Coimbatore, and extend to the state of Tamil Nadu. The Nilgiri Mountains are also situated very near the rugged and magnificent mountains of the Western Ghats. Among the peaks and foothills, there are rolling grasslands and the dense jungles where elephants roam in herds. These mountains look out over the Indian Ocean toward Africa and are home to hundreds of tea estates. This is a land combined of peaks and precipices, rolling grasslands in the foothills and dense jungles. Of the variety of wildlife in the region, the most majestic is the elephant, which roams in herds in many parts as well as in protected forest areas.
The tea industry was established in this area in 1840 when Colonel John Ouchterloney, while surveying below the Nilgiris, came upon a sheet of virgin forest well supplied with its own rivers and streams. At a height of about 4,500 feet and with approximately 80 inches of rain a year, it was the perfect location for tea and coffee growing. The soils are red and yellow loam and lateritic in origin. Nilgiri mountain basin teas grow in a relatively mild, yearlong season, unlike the seasonal Assams and Darjeelings. Most of the plantations get two monsoons. Although the cropping season is throughout the year, there are two big flushing seasons: first from April to May when about 25% of the annual crop is gathered and second in September to December which produces 35-40% of the annual take. Vintage teas are produced in December/January typically. Premium South Indian tea is plucked by hand and processed in the orthodox method. This creates whole leaf teas with a leaf that is stylishly well twisted.
Ouchterloney’s borther, James, planted the tea, imported labor and food and started production. Ootacamund, the famous hill resort, lies in these hills and is affectionately known as “Ooty” by local planters and tourists who visit throughout the year. Ooty is also the tea region’s county seat and was formerly the hill station for the raj officialdom from Madras. The history is not lost as many of the towns here are picture-post-cards showing traditional character and historical Indian and English ruling architecture.
Some of the more famous South Indian tea estates consistent for quality include Craigmore, Havukal, Chamraj, Anaimudi, Tiger Hill, Dunsandale and Colacumby and Iyerpadi.
The high-grown black teas from the Nigiri mountain basin are among the quality teas produced in India. Ask anyone familiar with India teas and they will tell you Darjeeling “The Exotic One”, Assam “The Strong One” and Niligiri “The Fragrant One” are together what make up the three core varieties of quality Indian tea. Traditionally in the West, South Indian teas are employed as a neutral tea bag blending tea. Earlier the teas were mostly sold in the former USSR and Eastern Europe. With the demise of the former Soviet state, the market for these medium quality teas fell apart. This upset was traumatic but temporary. Niligiri tea has become even more renown for its very distinct place as one of the great quality orthodox tea producing areas of Indian with Darjeeling, Assam and lesser known Sikkim being the others.
South Indian teas are famous for their sweet fragrance, bright and lightly brisk liquor and their mellow, light and clean flavor. They are a preferred choice for many blenders across the globe as do not cloud and offer any blend flavor, balance, medium body and color without dominating the cup. Few teas can offer the blend body and strength of flavor without over-powering any cup. For example, compared to China blacks, South Indian teas offer a cleaner and more refreshing taste. Another exceptional quality of these teas is that they are one of the most forgiving black teas, making it difficult to over steep them. Some say that drinking a South Indian tea is a bit like discovering a great Australian Shiraz: before you had tried, you just would not have guessed what a great and fordable treat you were missing. The G.S. Haly Co. invites you to not miss out on the “Fragrant One”.
